Tim Pauly
Five cans of different Broken Bat beers, with American Family Field looming in the background.
Broken Bat goes flying... into the Madison beer market.
Milwaukee’s Broken Bat Brewing Co. rebranded its lineup for 2023 with new names and packaging. The brewery has been around for a while — it’s celebrating its sixth anniversary on April 8 at its taproom in Milwaukee — but its beers haven’t been seen much in Madison until the past few months. Among its bestsellers is Schtoinker, a German-style dunkelweizen. Schtoinker (a term for a short blooper hit into the shallow outfield) is sold in six-packs of 12-ounce cans and has made the opening day roster of invited Wisconsin beers served at American Family Field. Only a couple dozen craft beers get picked to be on tap in the stadium craft beer bar and those must remain popular, or, like professional baseball players, they’re replaced mid-season.
The beers from Copper State Brewing of Green Bay are now hitting Madison store shelves more frequently, too. The Green Bay brewery is owned by former Madison residents Jon and Missy Martens; Jon worked on an engineering degree at UW-Madison from 2006-2011. The Martens were part of an original ownership group who bought Copper State in 2017; they bought out the other partners in 2021. Right now look for its bestseller, Chocolate Coffee Peanut Butter Nitro Porter, full of nutty peanut butter aroma and flavor. Other available Copper State beers include Rugged North, a golden lager; Plaid Jacket Pils, a Czech pilsner; Good N Ruddy, an amber ale; and Bucket List, a New England style IIPA. The brewery’s barrel-aged beers in bomber bottles have also been creating a buzz lately. They may be a little pricey at $22-$25/bomber, but I haven’t been disappointed yet. The rum barrel-aged imperial stout called Midwest Goodbye has deep malty sweetness and vanilla accents. Just hitting stores is the brewery’s maple series of big beers aged in maple bourbon barrels. Those include Lucky Sap, with toasted pecans added, and Pour Sap, with added vanilla beans.
Another beer for opening day: Señor Smoke recently hit the taps at the Parched Eagle in Madison. This Scotch ale has firm caramel notes and a bready backbone with smoke aroma. Brewer Jim Goronson uses just a touch of German smoked malt, which some purists might quibble over in the recipe for the style, but I really like the subtle blend of smokiness with the smooth breadiness of Maris Otter malt. There’s just enough campfire to make this beer distinctive among other Scotch ales. Goronson, a baseball fan, borrowed the nickname of legendary Detroit Tigers closer Aurelio López, known for his heaters (fastballs). The beer is taproom only ($7/glass, $18/howler and $24/growler).
Barrel fever: Rare Barrel Affair returns to the Swan Barn Door, 4161 River Road, Wisconsin Dells, on April 22. This annual event should have about three dozen breweries attending with tastings of barrel-aged beers from breweries throughout Wisconsin. Tickets are $65 in advance and $80 at the door.
